Product Review: Kisan signalMinder

A while back I added JCW turn signal mirrors. They have LED running lights/turn signals built into the front side of the mirrors. I love the mirrors but replacing the stock signals that use bulbs with ones that use LEDs changes the load on the signal relay and causes and unsightly and probably unsafe change in the blink rate. (It’s faster.) The recommended way to correct this situation is to add a load equalizer to the circuit. (Guess what that does.) But I found a better way.

The Kisan signalMinder is a solid state signal canceling device that is intended to replace the electro-mechanical signal relay. It automatically cancels the turn signal if it is left on for more than a preset amount of time. Kisan’s model SM-3 fits all Honda cruisers (small wonder as Honda seems to use the same fugly turn signals on everything from their scooters to the Valkyrie) and is available from several online dealers for around $100. (Accessories International had them on sale for $95, free shipping.) Just unplug the stock relay and plug in the SM-3.

As the signalMinder is a solid state module, it flashes the signals at the same rate, regardless of load. To my mind, this is far better than screwing around, trying to find the correct load equalization. It means I can correct the flash rate of my LED/bulb combination now and not have to reengineer the whole thing when I convert my rear signals to LED later.

The SM-3 has two optional features that require a little more wiring. First, it enables you to convert your turn signals into combination running light/turn signals. The Shadows have this feature in the front and are wired accordingly. Most LED replacement signals have separate running light hot leads anyway. I did not add this feature to my rear signals and do not address the wiring issues here. Second, it allows you to interconnect the rear brake light to the timing circuit. If you do this, the timer is suspended whenever the brake is applied and resumes where it left off when the brake light goes out. This is a great feature as it allows you to sit at an intersection for any amount of time with your signal flashing and then, if you forget, cancel it after you complete the turn. This is generally when I forget to cancel the signal so I consider it necessary. Luckily, it’s an easy option to install.

The Kisan signalMinder comes with the following, clockwise from top left:

1. The module that replaces the stock relay.

2. A lead and wire tap to connect the brake light (more on that later)

3. A wiring harness to convert signals to running light/signals (not used in this application but don’t throw it away just yet)

4. A ground wire (not needed on the Shadow)

There are also terse but accurate set-up, installation and operating instructions. I’m posting these mod instructions for those who don’t like to “read between the lines” when it comes to electrical matters.

The hardest thing I had to do was find the stock relay. It’s tucked away in a hard to get to spot.  (Picture HareBare, crawling around the floor, tearing off everything that’s screwed down, including the top of the tool kit box, trying to find that goddamned clicking!) Anyway, if you know where it is, it’s not that hard to get to. There are two relays behind (inboard from) the fuse box. The one closest to the fuse box is the starter relay. The one farthest from the fuse box is the signal relay. The wiring harness has the starter leads and the signal leads tied together and they make a “Y” just outside the relay housing. Don’t remove the stock relay. (That way if the signalMinder ever dies on you, all  you have to do is move the plug back to the stock relay and you are back to flashing the world.) Just unplug the harness from the signal relay and plug it into the Kisan box. Here you can see the harness going into the starter relay. The connector to the signal relay has been unplugged from the relay and plugged into the Kisan module.

The Kisan signalMinder allows you to select the amount of time the signals will flash before canceling themselves. This setting is made via two of the three dip switches on the side of the module. The Kisan actually counts the number of flashes rather than a specific amount of time.

Here you can see that I’ve set mine to 40 flashes or about 30 seconds.

There’s plenty of room for the box under the seat. Here the module is, tucked under the seat bracket.

The next thing to do is to run a lead from the 12v brake light to the options plug on the module. You don’t HAVE to do this but it enables the feature that suspends the flash count so long as the brakes are applied. It takes less then 5 minutes so do it! Kisan supplies a wiring harness with a Molex type plug (the kind you have connecting your CD drive to your sound card inside your PC) for the running light option which for several reasons, I chose not to implement. They also supply a red wire with tap to wire in the brake light but it’s not attached to the Molex connector.

Remove the running light leads from the two outside slots in the connector by pressing down on the contact that shows through the tiny hole in the face of the connector and insert the red wire in the center slot so that the clip connects with this hole.

Here is the connector with the red wire in the center slot. I’m also holding one of the two running light leads which I’ve already removed. Note the small hole in the face of the connector that the contacts pre-wired to the leads snap into.

Now you have to find the brake light lead in the wiring harness. It’s inside the big mass of wires protected by a transparent hood. The leads run off toward the back of the bike. The wiring diagram that SIK posted on The Spirit World site indicates that the brake light is a Green/Yellow wire. That is, in fact, correct but in case you don’t trust wiring diagrams, check it with a multi-tester set to 0-40v DC. Connect the red(+) probe to the wiring harness at the Green/Yellow wire and ground the black (-) probe to the frame. As you can see, when you step on the brake pedal, you get 12v across the meter. You’ve found the brake lead.

Use the supplied tap to connect the red wire to the brake lead and plug the Molex connector into the Kisan module like this.

Test everything out and assuming that you’ve followed all the directions and it works, tuck everything neatly away and fasten down the module. I used a piece of foam tape with adhesive on both sides but I really don’t think it’s going anywhere regardless.

Pop the seat back on and go for a ride!